Zadar, Croatia
We checked out of our hotel and Tijo our driver was there to get us to Zadar with a stop at Krka National Park on the way. He was a very knowledgeable and pleasant young man and it was a comfortable ride. We made several stops as we climbed up the steep slopes and were rewarded with beautiful views of the coastline and the sparkling azure waters. The pretty towns of Split and Trogir were laid out below us like tiny miniature villages. The bright mustard-yellow flowering Spanish broom bushes were clustered all over the hillside along with occasional bursts of bright red poppy flowers. Legend has it that Split got its name from the word Spalathos that was the Greek name for this blooming shrub. On one of our photo-op stops, as we were looking over the cliffs out towards the mesmerizing clear blue waters, we heard a clucking sound and looked down to discover a hen hiding in the shrubs and blinking at us with its serious eyes! It must have wandered away from a nearby farm but my daughter wanted us to ‘take’ the chicken back as a pet!
As we began to descend downhill from the mountains we could see the emerald green Krka River down below in the valley. We boarded a 20-minute ferry ride to the entrance of the park and then followed the hordes of tourists all determinedly walking to view the impressive Skradinski Buk, the main waterfalls of the park.
The beautiful falls held us spellbound and we could have easily spent a couple of hours just enjoying the beauty of the surroundings but we had a lot more to see and appreciate. We climbed up over the falls and walked around on the wooden walkways skillfully constructed over the weaving river, so we could unobtrusively observe everything around us at close range. It felt like being transported to a fairy tale land in the woods.
As we walked, we marveled at the multitude of endemic plants and insect life. Frogs soaked up the sun on mossy rocks. Birds serenaded us with their many birdsongs. Dragonflies buzzed around in ecstasy. Fish swam in small schools in the absolute clear green waters of the river as it meandered and dipped and dropped on its course downhill.
It was a lovely shady walk exploring the woodlands and walking all around the falls. It was hard to leave this leafy glen but we went back on the boat, got back in the car and headed off to Sibenik.
Sibenik is a sleepy, coastal town right on the shores of the Adriatic. The waterfront was quiet and simple but still pretty in its natural setting. No waterfront in Croatia can be viewed as dull because the Adriatic Sea from anywhere you see, is remarkably clear and vibrant. The town’s pristine church in an airy, light square was the Cathedral of St. James and it is on the UNESCO world heritage list. A few steps up from the square, we ate at the Peligrini restaurant, a fine dining establishment that takes pains over the food preparation. It had a refined dining room immaculately laid out and enhanced by the old world stonewalls and ceiling. We loved the elegant ambiance and the slow but impeccable service. The homemade pasta laced with the truffle sauce was particularly divine. The waiter was amusing because he was effusive yet formal and took a lot of pride in the restaurant and the chef’s abilities. He appeared very distressed when we asked for variations to the entrees like extra garlic or spices. He was reluctant to tamper with the preparation of the food but brought the requested garlic, onions and basil to the table in an elaborate and artistic presentation. It was a treat to enjoy an exemplary meal in a small Dalmatian town on the coast.
We went on to Zadar, a lively town right on the water. The old town is enclosed on a peninsula and there are still remains of the old wall that had surrounded the old city. Maybe because the busy tourist season was still just a couple of weeks away, but Zadar was pleasantly less crowded than expected.
The old town was pleasant to walk around in. Zadar had gained major recognition lately due to the modern constructions of Nikola Basic – The Sea Organ and the Greeting to the Sun. The Sea Organ is a natural musical pipe organ constructed under the wide marble steps and the music is created by the rise and fall of the waves. Since its all natural, the music by the organs is different at different times depending on the waves and the tides. It was therapeutic to sit on the wide steps and listen to the sounds resonating from below.
Close by was the large 77-foot diameter of solar panels, also created by the same architect. During the day the solar panels absorbed the energy and come nightfall, visitors were mesmerized by the hypnotic vibrancy of the psychedelic lights. We kept going back to this popular spot to appreciate the different sounds created by nature, and the different light displays energizing the waterfront.
Zadar is proud of it’s sunsets, and sitting on the tip of the peninsula, it was an indulgence to watch the blazing sun trail a fiery descent into the sea. The soft cool breeze was ruffling the steely blue surface of the water, and the sounds of the sea organ and the swishing of the waves was truly mystical and calming.
That evening there was a special event taking place right at the ‘Greeting to the Sun’. The Nikola Tesla car rally was on and we took beautiful pictures of all the electric cars dramatically positioned around the periphery of the solar panels.
